The night under the still slightly lopsided mosquito net turned out better than Michael had feared. So when the alarm went off at 5:00 a.m., he and Annette were reasonably rested. An early breakfast at 6:00 a.m., and we were all set to depart at 6:45.
Today’s destination: Etosha National Park—a must-see for about two-thirds of all travelers to Namibia. Why? Because wildlife is abundant here, and thanks to the flat, open, and often bush-free terrain, the animals are remarkably easy to spot. We’re excited. It’s safari time!
We gather on time at the pickup spot, right next to the reception at Etosha Safari Camp, along with several other guests. It’s quite chilly—around 7°C (45°F)—and we’d been advised to bundle up. We did just that: undershirts, T-shirts, hoodies, and rain jackets as windbreakers. The rain jackets were especially happy to escape the back seat of the car for once.
Guests are gradually picked up in open safari vehicles with elevated seating rows, giving everyone a clear view of the landscape. At 6:50, we find ourselves the only ones left waiting in the soft light of dawn. Still, we’re assured our ride is on its way. Trusting the process, we snap a photo of the breathtakingly colorful morning sky.
Shortly after, our vehicle rolls in. Three rows, three seats each—the front row is taken, so we settle into the middle. The tiered seating gives us a great vantage point. Our driver, Nadia, bundled in gloves and a wooly hat, takes us onto the road. It’s a 10-kilometer (6.2-mile) drive to the park gate.
Ten kilometers at 7°C (45°F) and 80 km/h (50 mph) in an open vehicle? Brutal! Even with all our layers and the provided blankets, we’re freezing. Suddenly, the concept of a windshield makes a whole lot of sense—truly an underrated invention. The red dawn light gives our skin a surreal glow.
After what feels like ages—but is probably just a few minutes—we arrive at the southern gate of Etosha National Park. It’s a relief. Ahead, a queue of vehicles is waiting for the 7:15 a.m. opening. Nadia handles some formalities while two more guests and their guide join our vehicle.
And off we go! The vehicle slows down a bit, and the cold becomes more bearable. Just a few minutes in, we spot our first wildlife: a group of zebras grazing right by the roadside, bathed in the warm light of the rising sun. A magical sight! Cameras click all around us—especially from the pros behind us with their zoom lenses.
We turn off the main road onto bumpier paths, a test for our vehicle’s off-road prowess. But the slower pace helps us spot more animals—and finally warms us up a little.
Soon, we encounter our first springboks, a colorful antelope about the size of a European roe deer, with slim, pointed horns. Everyone is thrilled—though we don’t yet know just how common they’ll turn out to be in Etosha. (Spoiler: very.) We’ll see many springboks throughout the day.
Birdlife also makes an appearance. We spot a striking bird of prey perched in a tree just as it takes off—a dramatic moment captured on camera.
On the ground, we come across a red hartebeest—our only sighting of this antelope species. We learn they’re the second-fastest antelopes. Good to know.
Suddenly, the vehicle stops again—passengers on the right have no idea why. But on the left side of the track stands a curious bird known as an Alarm Bird. Moments later, it lets out an ear-splitting call and vanishes. Mystery solved.
Still no lions or elephants. Then another stop: our guide and her assistant are scanning the wide open grasslands. Lions were seen here the day before—but today, they’re nowhere to be found. Sadly, we won’t see any all day.
Elephants, however, leave their mark. We spot dung and broken branches by the roadside, signs they’ve passed through. There’s still hope.
First, though, a break. We pull into a fenced picnic and toilet area—safe from wildlife. Stepping out into the sun, we’re treated to hot coffee, tea, and biscuits.
Refreshed, we head for a nearby waterhole—and we hit the jackpot: a large herd of elephants, mostly females with their young. Some of the juveniles already look quite grown. We watch a bit of jostling—young males being pushed out, as they’re eventually expelled from the herd to live solo. One or two adult bulls are also present, likely because it’s mating season—the only time males join the females.
The elephants dominate the waterhole. A group of zebras waits nearby, unable to approach as long as the elephants are there.
We read in our guidebook that Etosha has too many elephants now, affecting other species and plant life. Sometimes, some must be culled—a controversial measure that often draws international protests. But we believe it’s up to the Namibians to decide how to manage their wildlife. So far, we’ve seen them act with great care and responsibility.
Moving on, we spot an unusual figure walking through the tall grass—a Secretary Bird. It gets its name from its tuxedo-like plumage and the quirky head feathers that resemble pencils tucked behind the ears. A fierce predator, it hunts on foot, feeding on snakes and small animals. After a while, it flaps across the road and disappears.
As for predators, we only spot one lone hyena—no big cats today.
With the sun rising, the air finally warms up. We begin peeling off our onion-like layers of clothing—though Michael, more cold-sensitive than Annette, hesitates a little longer.
More animals come into view: we see an oryx antelope with its impressively long, straight horns. These desert-adapted animals can go up to five days without drinking water—an incredible feat.
On the ground, a group of ground squirrels pops up, standing upright and curiously watching us. Adorably photogenic!
Then, finally—a giraffe! It’s feeding on the high branches of a tree beside the road. These gentle giants can reach heights of up to 5 meters (16.5 feet). When calves are born, they simply drop to the ground—hence the importance of choosing a soft landing spot.
We visit more waterholes, spotting huge numbers of zebras and springboks all around. The animals aren’t bothered by the vehicles at all—they’re clearly used to people and completely unafraid. It really does feel like they’re just standing by the roadside to greet us. What a sight!
This lack of fear is true for all the wildlife we’ve seen in Etosha. Unlike outside the park—where animals are skittish—Etosha’s residents are relaxed and, well, camera-ready.
Eventually, it’s time to return. We continue spotting zebras and springboks in large numbers. The initial excitement of “Oh wow, a zebra!” has softened into a calm appreciation. Still, the sight never gets old.
We make one last stop in Okaukuejo, a small settlement near the gate. Nadia handles the park entry fee for the group. On the parking lot, we’re surprised to see the Porsche rally cars again—the same ones we spotted on the road in Khorixas. Looks like they’re part of an Africa Rally.
The ride back to Etosha Safari Camp is smooth. In total, our safari lasted almost six hours. We’re looking forward to a relaxed afternoon.
In the evening, there’s dinner again with live music. A grey cat begs for food at our table, just like the night before. We’re not as sympathetic as others may have been—she looks well-fed and won’t go hungry. In fact, she’s the first house cat we’ve seen in Namibia.
