Once again, the desert greets us with a magical sunrise, refreshingly cool morning temperatures – and silence. It’s hard to describe just how silent the desert can be, especially when you’re used to the constant buzz of life in Germany, or even more so in a German city. Sure, you might hear the wind rustling, a bird chirping, a cricket, or the hum of an insect flying by – but when there’s no wind and the animals are quiet, it is utterly still. Above all, there are no human-made sounds – perhaps the occasional distant car, but those are few and far between.
Because we cherish this silence so much, we also choose our accommodations accordingly: small, private guesthouses, usually too tiny for large tour groups. Yes, in places like Sossusvlei and later Etosha we’ll stay in a bigger lodge, and to be honest, we enjoy the occasional comfort – elegant dinners and all the perks. But most of the time, we try to stay off the beaten path and take things slow.
This also shows in our travel rhythm: we almost always stay two nights at each place. That does mean we cover less ground overall – and probably see fewer sights than others – but we believe we experience more deeply what we do see.
So, on to today. Michael gets a bit of a scare while shaving – a cricket suddenly chirps at him from the side in the morning sunlight. Apparently, the bathroom area is part of its territory. After a short negotiation, things are settled peacefully.
Before breakfast, we clean up the grill and pack at a relaxed pace. At the restaurant yesterday, we got a small packet of instant Nescafé, which we saved for this morning. Michael tries his hand at the communal gas burner – and successfully boils water! Annette finally gets the coffee she missed yesterday. We still haven’t managed to find any tea for Michael, but sparkling water for breakfast makes for a nice change.
The wildlife around us seems hungry too. Every last crumb from last night’s dinner has disappeared. Crickets wander along our terrace looking for more. We start feeding them – first with bread, then with apple slices. Yes, we’re not only feeding birds now – but also crickets. Incredible. They accept our offerings gratefully, and we soon discover that one prefers bread while the other is clearly an apple connoisseur. Apparently, even insects have gourmet tastes.
We’re taking our time today and plan to check out around 10:30. That’s when the not-so-friendly receptionist informs us that we owe a substantial surcharge – for being 30 minutes late. Even though we are the only guests in the entire camp at this point, and new guests aren’t due until the afternoon. After showing our displeasure, she changes her tune and says she’ll waive the fee if we give her a tip instead. We understand tipping is expected from Europeans and are happy to give when service is good – but this felt a bit cheeky. Still, since we had little choice, we reluctantly agreed. A disappointing farewell from an otherwise beautiful place. The service, particularly regarding basic camping gear, could have been better – but all in all, it was a lovely, quiet, and modern spot.
Our next stop is Uis, but before that, we make a short detour to the Rock Arch, located near the Spitzkoppe Cabin Camp. The Rock Arch is a natural granite formation, reached by walking over the surrounding boulders. A very photogenic spot – Annette poses perfectly and lets Michael do the photography. From up here, there’s a sweeping view over the landscape. In a small depression where water has collected, we spot blooming shrubs – and even bumblebees! The first bumblebees we’ve seen in Namibia.
On the way to the Arch, we see an off-road capable camper trailer in the parking lot – from mobilodge.com. It gets us thinking – maybe this kind of setup would be ideal for a future trip to South Africa. Constantly packing and unpacking our suitcases does get tiring.
Since we’ve taken it slow today, we’re now feeling hungry and decide to stop again at that Western-style restaurant for lunch. We park directly under the “Parking” sign and order Namibian-style pizza and chicken salad – plus lots of coffee and tea. Our feathered friends are back to join us, of course.
By early afternoon, it’s time to head toward Uis, about 93 kilometers (58 miles) away. As we leave the Spitzkoppe area, we see many roadside stands with children, but hardly any adults. The kids run toward our car as we pass, holding handmade crafts in one hand and empty water bottles in the other. Children of all ages, all selling the same type of souvenirs. We assume their parents work in the nearby camps and lodges, while the families live in the small, neat houses in the area. It makes us wonder: why aren’t the kids in school? Do the parents not value education, or is there simply no school nearby?
In any case, we decide not to buy anything. Years ago in Morocco, a guide advised us not to give money or buy from begging children, so they would understand that education is the better path. We’ve stuck to that advice ever since.
On the 90 km (56 mi) stretch to Uis, we see only two other vehicles. The road could use some grading – it’s quite bumpy, and we’re mostly limited to 60 km/h (37 mph). We pass only a few driveways, possibly leading to farms, and a handful of simple dwellings with animals and people – a herd of goats, and a few donkeys crossing the road. At one point, the landscape turns greener for a while before fading back into the desert tones we’re now so familiar with.
We arrive in Uis in the early afternoon and head straight to our accommodation – the 3 Aloes Guest House. It’s located on a hill just outside the town, with a wonderful view of the Brandberg massif. We’re warmly welcomed and get the best of the three rooms, with direct mountain views. The room is spacious and clean, and the fridge holds a small jug of milk for tea and coffee.
We’re the only guests tonight and take the opportunity to enjoy the pool. The water is a bit cold at first, but once we’re in, it’s refreshing and actually great for a short swim. The garden around the house is lovely, and once again we revel in that precious desert silence we’ve come to love so much.
In the evening, we’re treated to a stunning sunset behind the Brandberg, and the day ends just as it began – in peace.
Tomorrow, we’re planning a little excursion – and then we’ll write more about the town of Uis and its fascinating history.
looks serene- i love it
I’m glad you feel that way – it was such a calm and special moment!