Good Morning, Desert! At 6:50 a.m., the Namib greets us with a sunrise behind the pool, while the morning star—Venus—watches the whole scene from above.
We’re heading to breakfast early today because at 7:30 a.m., the gates to Namib-Naukluft National Park open. Our goal: Sossusvlei. But more on that later—there are still 60 kilometers (about 37 miles) to cover by car. On our way to breakfast, we quickly snap a few photos of our bungalow and the lodge grounds. It’s a very well-kept property with several bungalows scattered through a desert-style garden.
At the park entrance, we arrive right on time, only to find ourselves already number 58 in line—assigned by the man at the gate, who also notes down our license plate. After paying the entrance fee, we’re on our way. A small map on the back of the ticket shows the route, since from here on there’s no mobile reception—and no Google Maps. But with only one road ahead, even we can’t get lost.
And off we go! The road is paved and in good condition, stretching out in a straight line through the barren landscape, broken only occasionally by a long, sweeping curve. Sixty kilometers can feel surprisingly long. We stay left—Namibia drives on the left—even though there’s almost no oncoming traffic. The car ahead of us is just a tiny speck in the distance, and there’s no one behind.
Along the road, the first dunes begin to appear on both sides—tall, glowing orange in the clear morning light, casting sharp shadows. The colors are truly stunning: the yellow of the dry, expansive grass contrasts beautifully with the dunes, all under a deep blue, cloudless sky. Fascinating!
After about 20 kilometers (12 miles), we reach the Tsauchab river crossing—one of Namibia’s many ephemeral rivers, known as riviere. True to its name, the Tsauchab is completely dry. Still, trees and bushes line the banks, marking its course in the landscape. Their deep roots hint at the fact that this river must occasionally carry a significant amount of water.
Our guidebook tells us that the Tsauchab used to flow all the way to the Atlantic Ocean—some 80 km (50 miles) from here—about 60,000 years ago. Then the dunes formed, blocking its path. Since it only rarely carries water, the river couldn’t push back and now ends in a basin that only fills after rare rainfall events. That basin is Sossusvlei—usually a cracked, dry clay pan surrounded by towering dunes, some among the highest in the world. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its striking beauty.
Along the way, we pass Dune 40 and Dune 45, both accessible from designated parking spots and popular with climbers. But our destination is the end of the paved road. We park at the final lot, where many tourists are deflating their tires in preparation for the last 5 kilometers (about 3 miles) through deep sand to Sossusvlei—essentially across the ancient lake bed itself. Despite having a 4×4, we opt for the safer route and take the shuttle to the actual Sossusvlei parking area.
The color contrast between the orange-red sand and the white-gray clay pan is simply stunning.
After some deliberation, we decide to hike to Deadvlei, a nearby clay pan slightly south of Sossusvlei. According to our guidebook, this is where you’ll find the famous dead camelthorn trees, believed to be over 800 years old—remnants of a forest that died around 1500 due to persistent drought. The desert climate has preserved them almost perfectly.
On the way there, and in Deadvlei itself, we discover quite a bit. In the far end of the pan, we even find signs of water—succulent plants gathering in moister spots, and eventually small pools of open water teeming with insects. The soft mud leaves its mark on our once-white sneakers. Ah well, it’ll wipe off.
As you can tell, we discovered a lot—but, unfortunately, not a single blackened dead tree as promised by the guidebook. Instead of continuing the search, we tackle the dune at the edge of Deadvlei. We make it about 60 meters (nearly 200 feet) up—not quite the summit, but the view is amazing. The desert’s colors are once again mesmerizing. And a special moment: Annette casts a long shadow across the dune, with the sun still low in the sky.
We return via shuttle to the first parking area and enjoy a quick whole grain snack. And—surprise!—we finally spot a dead tree. Maybe not 800 years old, but it still counts.
After a return drive that feels even longer than on the way in, we stop for fuel and have a pleasant chat with the attendant. He tells us it reaches over 40°C (about 104°F) here in summer. This year, it has already rained once—he’s hoping for another shower in December. Such is desert life.
Back at the lodge, we reward ourselves with a slice of Sachertorte and an apple pastry—our fitness watches show over 10,000 steps for the day! The afternoon is spent relaxing by the pool, with excellent Wi-Fi allowing us to keep working on this blog.
To close out the day: a few words about dinner. The Sossusvlei Lodge offers an excellent grill buffet, with a wide variety of meats—some we’d never heard of back home. In addition to pork and beef, there’s oryx, kudu, eland, and others—all local game, expertly seasoned and prepared. Accompanied by Namibian wine, fresh shellfish, and a delightful dessert buffet, it was a perfect end to a memorable day.
